This was as informative as it was entertaining! I had no idea who San Gennaro was before reading this, though I'm slightly disappointed funnel cakes aren't symbolic of something besides Americans' insatiable need to consume junk food. Fascinating that the festival, which from all outward appearances seems to have nothing at all to do with Italian culture, has such deep roots in the community. And the fact that Michael Verra lives in the same apartment his grandparents lived in? Mind-boggling!
There are still sweet summer patron saint festivals all over Italy. I go to one every year on an island between Rome & Naples (many islanders have relatives in the Bronx) There are food trucks & sugared nuts & carnival games and rides. The saint is decorated with gold and flowers & marched through the town and then onto a boat. There are concerts with cover band and midnight fireworks. It is one of my most favorite things in the world.
That sounds so lovely, Gillian. Allen told me about the saint feasts in Italy as well. And Mr. Verra said that back in the day, there were multiple feasts in Little Italy, on different blocks, one for each town back in Italy.
"The feast celebrates a powerful story of sacrifice and devotion. According to legend, around 410 AD, the town of Nola was invaded by North African pirates, who captured many of its young men, including the son of a grieving widow. Seeing her despair, Bishop Paolino courageously offered himself in exchange for the boy and was taken as a slave. His selflessness became widely known, eventually reaching a Turkish sultan, who was so moved by Paolino’s actions that he secured his release, along with the other captives.
When Paolino returned to Nola, the townspeople greeted him with joy, carrying lilies as symbols of love and purity. This moment inspired an annual celebration, where different trade guilds began creating elaborate displays of lilies. Over time, these displays evolved into towering wooden structures called gigli (Italian for "lilies"), which were paraded through the streets in honor of San Paolino."
Anne, it’s better known as the Giglio. One of the teachers that I supervised and her family were very involved in the hoisting in this behemoth of a statue. It takes place (or did)in July.
1.) Same family in an apartment for 150 years is EPIC
2.) DID YOU SAY YOU WERE A FRIEND OF DYLAN'S?
3.) My formative experience at the San Gennaro festival was waiting in line to buy food with friends and, because the streets were so packed, we were standing in front of another booth. The gentleman who was running the booth fetched his lady friend so she could tell us to fuck off. 😂😂
I love the family histories in this story. It's rare these days, esp in the US, to see a business or even a cultural holiday passed down 3 or 4 generations. Any pics of the rent controlled apt?????
Ok! Reader Justin Dwyer found this video with the full tour. It looks just like one would hope! He's paying $87.25 a month. As of last year it looks like.
“If you're dumb enough to give somebody $400 for a $6 teddy bear, honestly, that's on you,” he said. “You're just stupid!" I love Tim's honesty!
As a younger man, my uncle was a traveling carney. Later, he was one of the owners of the Million Dollar Pier in Atlantic City. He had the same attitude as Tim. My sister and I would walk off the pier with stuffed animals larger than we were-- but no one else had them because they were that hard to win!
Back in the day, the Feast extended down Mulberry to Columbus Park, and that's where they had some of the best sideshow features, along with a vacant lot on the east side of Mulberry a few blocks north of Canal. One featured the "100-pound giant rat" that could "rip a man's arm off." It was actually a capybara. The year I brought a small voice recorder with me to record the spiel, it was gone!
Though it might not rip a man's arm off. According to google they are "renowned for their exceptionally friendly, social, and gentle nature." Disappointing!
I used to love attending San Gennaro to get my yearly fix of my favorite Italian delicacy - fried oreos! But the last few years they stopped frying them to order and have been serving up cold oily oreos that have been lying in wait for some schmo (me) to pony up $10 to taste the fleeting flavor of nostalgia. They're sullying the good saint's name with cold oreos!
Next year, as you know, is the 100th anniversary of the feast and they had better level up on the Oreo front by then. Perhaps we need to launch a petition.
I know David! Everything here is the best. Las Vegas also has a big San Gennaro Feast but I bet they don't have a Lucy or a Michael Verra. Plus you gotta pay for admission!
Well I’m Lucy and my husband’s name is Michael! But - I visited Italy decades ago and hated it haha, so I enjoyed reading this, of course, but have no desire to go to it. I do like that neighbours and friends get to meet up every year though, that’s a nice bit of community spirit.
Anne, only in New York can a saint’s blood liquify on cue while rainbow cookies accidentally fall into the fryer. On Roosevelt Island our miracles are smaller, a board meeting ending on time, for instance. Different stage, same comedy
Anne, I knew Michael Verra's picture looked familiar. He was in a YouTube video i stumbled upon not long ago about the old little Italy. His rent is less than $100 a month! We need a whole rundown on his apartment. https://youtu.be/liYHQ_dGpms?si=70UQV2Ytq56Zm5Ts
I asked, Kim! In Mr. Verra's words, "The money is an offering, a thank you sort of something. Just an offering basically. It's like if you go to church and light a candle. It's just a dedication thing."
You can either pin it to the ribbon board, which is the European custom, or throw a dollar in the basket, which is the American custom. And then Mr. Verra hands you a little card with a picture of the saint on it.
Absolutely dripping with Italian sauce and companionship. Just like our Multicultural Festivals. Packed with people sampling all sorts of yummy dishes. But so large!!! You’d certainly get your exercise while checking everything out. Another fun post. Thanks so much.
I didn't cover nearly as many miles as I do for a typical story, Beth, because the feast streets are so narrow and crowded you can't get very far. Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks for a slice of life from Little Italy. From a guy who lived years in Toronto, I agree with the comment that Buffalo, New York and Toronto have a lot in common....maybe more in common than these communities have with Napoli.
Another great romp through the streets of New York, Anne. Thanks.
I hope you have the opportunity to go to Italy, Anne. As someone who travels there somewhat regularly, I can see lots of opportunities for your newsletter. Besides checking out the differences between Italian and Italian-American traditions, you could ask Italians what they think of New York life, for example. Your interviews would be easy and fun. Italians think about the States all the time (because of popular cultural influences and politics) and many Italians speak English. You'd have a ball!
This was as informative as it was entertaining! I had no idea who San Gennaro was before reading this, though I'm slightly disappointed funnel cakes aren't symbolic of something besides Americans' insatiable need to consume junk food. Fascinating that the festival, which from all outward appearances seems to have nothing at all to do with Italian culture, has such deep roots in the community. And the fact that Michael Verra lives in the same apartment his grandparents lived in? Mind-boggling!
Informative? Ooooh noooos! That was not my intention!
Re funnel cakes: I had not lived until I had the BIRTHDAY CAKE FLAVOR FUNNEL CAKE at the State Fair last summer. I am still high.
Wouldn't you love to see Michael Verra's apartment? But even I am not nosy enough to request the tour.
Ok, more entertaining than informative, but I was shocked to learn that the Piña Colada is the national drink of Italy!
It looks like Michael was in a short film shot in Little Italy in 2016 called Mulberry so maybe there is some footage from his apartment in that?
I just tried to find, Rob. Can you link please?
https://vimeo.com/902735542?fl=pl&fe=sh
There are still sweet summer patron saint festivals all over Italy. I go to one every year on an island between Rome & Naples (many islanders have relatives in the Bronx) There are food trucks & sugared nuts & carnival games and rides. The saint is decorated with gold and flowers & marched through the town and then onto a boat. There are concerts with cover band and midnight fireworks. It is one of my most favorite things in the world.
That sounds so lovely, Gillian. Allen told me about the saint feasts in Italy as well. And Mr. Verra said that back in the day, there were multiple feasts in Little Italy, on different blocks, one for each town back in Italy.
I wonder if they still do St. Anthony’s Feast on Houston Street?
I knew someone whose uncle used to be one the men who carried the giant saint statue in Williamsburg. I forget which saint.
Looks like its San Paolino, Gillian.
https://www.olmcfeast.com/history
"The feast celebrates a powerful story of sacrifice and devotion. According to legend, around 410 AD, the town of Nola was invaded by North African pirates, who captured many of its young men, including the son of a grieving widow. Seeing her despair, Bishop Paolino courageously offered himself in exchange for the boy and was taken as a slave. His selflessness became widely known, eventually reaching a Turkish sultan, who was so moved by Paolino’s actions that he secured his release, along with the other captives.
When Paolino returned to Nola, the townspeople greeted him with joy, carrying lilies as symbols of love and purity. This moment inspired an annual celebration, where different trade guilds began creating elaborate displays of lilies. Over time, these displays evolved into towering wooden structures called gigli (Italian for "lilies"), which were paraded through the streets in honor of San Paolino."
Anne, it’s better known as the Giglio. One of the teachers that I supervised and her family were very involved in the hoisting in this behemoth of a statue. It takes place (or did)in July.
LOVE this 🥹💗
1.) Same family in an apartment for 150 years is EPIC
2.) DID YOU SAY YOU WERE A FRIEND OF DYLAN'S?
3.) My formative experience at the San Gennaro festival was waiting in line to buy food with friends and, because the streets were so packed, we were standing in front of another booth. The gentleman who was running the booth fetched his lady friend so she could tell us to fuck off. 😂😂
1. EPIC RENT CONTROL SITUATION FOR SURE
2. Haha I did not say I was a friend of Dylan's. It's funny but that is the sort of thing I get very weird and shy about.
3. So authentic. I am jealous of your experience Emily!
You're friends with Dylan McKay?
I love the family histories in this story. It's rare these days, esp in the US, to see a business or even a cultural holiday passed down 3 or 4 generations. Any pics of the rent controlled apt?????
I was just saying I'd love to see it, CK. Our friend Rob Stephenson found a video that may give us a glimpse so I'm waiting for the link.
Ok! Reader Justin Dwyer found this video with the full tour. It looks just like one would hope! He's paying $87.25 a month. As of last year it looks like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liYHQ_dGpms
Interesting clip, Anne. Shame on the landlord.
Great story. That apartment is a time capsule. He should charge people to walk thru as he tells his story. I’d go!
"Pina coladas -- the national drink of Italy."
Thanks, Anne. I just finished l snorted my coffee!
Haha
To tell you the truth I Googled first just in case it actually WAS! You never know...
“If you're dumb enough to give somebody $400 for a $6 teddy bear, honestly, that's on you,” he said. “You're just stupid!" I love Tim's honesty!
As a younger man, my uncle was a traveling carney. Later, he was one of the owners of the Million Dollar Pier in Atlantic City. He had the same attitude as Tim. My sister and I would walk off the pier with stuffed animals larger than we were-- but no one else had them because they were that hard to win!
OMG Best uncle ever!!!
"I just love these old amusement games!" I told Dylan.
"They're not rigged!" she replied. "Just so you know—I have integrity! If this was rigged I would not be here!"
Literally commented this before but saying it again, but if you have to lead with "This isn't a trick," then.... .....
Dane, yes, it felt super familiar when she said it—and I remember your comment too. But I can't remember the story!
Back in the day, the Feast extended down Mulberry to Columbus Park, and that's where they had some of the best sideshow features, along with a vacant lot on the east side of Mulberry a few blocks north of Canal. One featured the "100-pound giant rat" that could "rip a man's arm off." It was actually a capybara. The year I brought a small voice recorder with me to record the spiel, it was gone!
OMG. Bring back the capybara!
Though it might not rip a man's arm off. According to google they are "renowned for their exceptionally friendly, social, and gentle nature." Disappointing!
I used to love attending San Gennaro to get my yearly fix of my favorite Italian delicacy - fried oreos! But the last few years they stopped frying them to order and have been serving up cold oily oreos that have been lying in wait for some schmo (me) to pony up $10 to taste the fleeting flavor of nostalgia. They're sullying the good saint's name with cold oreos!
Eden! I am shocked!!
Next year, as you know, is the 100th anniversary of the feast and they had better level up on the Oreo front by then. Perhaps we need to launch a petition.
It's things like this that make NYC so unique compared to other cities.
I know David! Everything here is the best. Las Vegas also has a big San Gennaro Feast but I bet they don't have a Lucy or a Michael Verra. Plus you gotta pay for admission!
Well I’m Lucy and my husband’s name is Michael! But - I visited Italy decades ago and hated it haha, so I enjoyed reading this, of course, but have no desire to go to it. I do like that neighbours and friends get to meet up every year though, that’s a nice bit of community spirit.
Lucy, I am shocked! Who hates Italy?!?!
Well I've never been so maybe I do and don't know it yet. I'd love to find out!
You’ll possibly love it, everyone else does except me.
I’ve always wanted to go to this, so thank you for bringing a bit of it to me!
Happy to Chris! Any requests for my next venture?
As a matter of fact, I do! Have you heard of the Mmuseumm? It's in a freight elevator.
https://www.instagram.com/mmuseumm/?hl=en
Apologies if you've covered this and I missed it somehow.
Have not been and this looks like fun. Thank you!
Anne, only in New York can a saint’s blood liquify on cue while rainbow cookies accidentally fall into the fryer. On Roosevelt Island our miracles are smaller, a board meeting ending on time, for instance. Different stage, same comedy
Not to mention the pneumatic tube trash system, Eleanor!
Anne, I knew Michael Verra's picture looked familiar. He was in a YouTube video i stumbled upon not long ago about the old little Italy. His rent is less than $100 a month! We need a whole rundown on his apartment. https://youtu.be/liYHQ_dGpms?si=70UQV2Ytq56Zm5Ts
Aha! Mr. Stephenson was just mentioning this video and I'd asked him for a link. Thank you!
I am a big San Gennaro fan!! The blood ceremony is on the news (it happens twice a year)
but why are there bills pinned to the shrine??
I asked, Kim! In Mr. Verra's words, "The money is an offering, a thank you sort of something. Just an offering basically. It's like if you go to church and light a candle. It's just a dedication thing."
You can either pin it to the ribbon board, which is the European custom, or throw a dollar in the basket, which is the American custom. And then Mr. Verra hands you a little card with a picture of the saint on it.
Absolutely dripping with Italian sauce and companionship. Just like our Multicultural Festivals. Packed with people sampling all sorts of yummy dishes. But so large!!! You’d certainly get your exercise while checking everything out. Another fun post. Thanks so much.
I didn't cover nearly as many miles as I do for a typical story, Beth, because the feast streets are so narrow and crowded you can't get very far. Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks for a slice of life from Little Italy. From a guy who lived years in Toronto, I agree with the comment that Buffalo, New York and Toronto have a lot in common....maybe more in common than these communities have with Napoli.
Another great romp through the streets of New York, Anne. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed Renato! And having grown up in Buffalo, many trips to Toronto and living in NYC now I have to agree, 'cept I've never been to Italy!
I hope you have the opportunity to go to Italy, Anne. As someone who travels there somewhat regularly, I can see lots of opportunities for your newsletter. Besides checking out the differences between Italian and Italian-American traditions, you could ask Italians what they think of New York life, for example. Your interviews would be easy and fun. Italians think about the States all the time (because of popular cultural influences and politics) and many Italians speak English. You'd have a ball!