Who Still Wears a Suit in NYC?
The Last Hold-Outs Explain Their Jackets and Ties!
Hello everyone,
Welcome to Issue #115 of CAFÉ ANNE!
I am pleased to report that last week’s feature, NYC Teen Roulette—in which I interviewed random teens on the street using questions submitted by readers—was a hit! The consensus: “The kid are alright.”
“NYC Teen Roulette is a win!” was the top comment, from Michael E. in LA. “This is the perfect antidote to the constant stream of ‘kids today’ moral panic clickbait BS articles.”
Readers especially liked the exchange with 18-year-old Insaf who, in response to the question, “When does someone become an adult?” replied, “Probably like 45. I've never met a 30-year-old who acts like an adult. They're always confused.”
“Speaking as a 40-year-old, Insaf's comment that you don't really become an adult till 45 made me feel very seen, lol,” wrote reader Samm in NYC.
I’ll definitely do another round before year’s end. I’m also planning an issue devoted to NYC teen street slang. Stay tuned!
In other news, huge sidewalk-mango-cart shoutouts to new paid subscribers Karen S., Emily, Karl H., Sara C., Mike F., and, of course, Katie who sprang for a $100 Founding Membership. So kind! All told, that’s enough $$$ for 116 bags of sliced mango, just in time for the start of the season. Plus, your support helps keep CAFÉ ANNE free for everyone, everywhere, always.
Also, a special old-school thank you and regards to reader Drew M. in Portland for the cash in the mail, lovely hand-written letter and delightful poem. I promise not to burn any of the three!
I am very excited for this week’s issue, of course. I hit the NYC streets to answer a burning question: Who’s still wearing a suit to work, and why? Please enjoy.
Regards!
Anne
TAKING NOTE—CREATING OURSELVES THROUGH JOURNALING
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FEATURE
Who Still Wears a Suit in NYC?
I was on the phone with my dad the other day when we got to wondering—who's still wearing a suit these days?
This is a topic of family interest because after my great-grandfather Max Kadet immigrated from Prussia in 1904 and settled in the village outside Buffalo where I grew up, he opened a suit shop on Main Street named, imaginatively, Max Kadet. It stayed in the family until the early 1970s when my father saw the sartorial writing on the wall, sold the shop, and became a CPA.
Good call! Over the next four decades, dad enjoyed a fine professional career. The suit business, meanwhile, fell off a cliff.
When you watch old news clips, everyone on the street—outside factory workers and farmers—is dressed like a banker. (And they look fantastic!) Now, according to an October 2023 Gallup poll, just 3% of Americans wear a suit to work. That's down from 7% just before the pandemic. (Alas, the annual survey only dates back to 2002, when 12% wore business dress.)
So who are the die-hard suit-wearers, and why are they holding out? In NYC, there are 4.7 million working adults. If 3% wear suits, that's 141,000 suit-wearing New Yorkers. It shouldn't be hard to find a few and get their story.
I started by posting a query, "Who's still wearing a suit in New York City?" on Qwoted, a service that allows "journalists" to connect with "sources" for their "stories."
I only heard back from three people—a wardrobe consultant, a lady who organizes networking events and, of course, a suit shop owner. Perhaps this is because I am a small-time blogger and not the New York Times. Still, all three were very helpful!
I first spoke with menswear consultant Reginald Ferguson, founder of NY Fashion Geek (tagline: "Always be fly”), who said he wears a suit every weekday. To my dismay, he showed up for our Tuesday morning Zoom call in a blue work shirt.
"I'm disappointed you're not wearing a suit!" I told him.
"The bottom of me is!" he corrected. "I have my suit pants on already because I have an event to go to this evening."
The suit was a multi-pinstripe Burberry, "Made for Barneys, rest in peace," said Mr. Ferguson. "I don't mess around. It's probably ten years old. And it's still still f—ing fly!"
So why does he wear suits?
"I look my best in the suit," he said. "It's not that I don't look good in other items of clothing. I have a work shirt on, I think I look pretty good! But I look great in a suit."
His attire also makes him a walking billboard for his business, helping men "dress with intention," as he puts it, whether the look is hip-hop or professional: "When someone asks me at networking event what I do and I tell them, 'I'm a men's fashion consultant,' you know what happens? They give me the quick once-over and they go, 'Oh, that makes sense!'"
That evening for example, he was wearing the Burberry to a tech industry event where he'd likely be the only suit in the room.
"I want tech bros as clients because I think that's a niche of guys that dress terribly," he said. "They aspire to be Zuck, but as I often tell them, 'Hey, that hoodie that Zuck has? That's a Brunello Cucinelli hoodie. I don't think you can afford it.'"
"Tech bros I find interesting because they think they don't have a style and they don't need a style," he continued. "Yet they are a style. And to me, I mean, doggone, how many days can you wear a hoodie? It's not that I don't have hoodies in my house. But Jesus Christ, come on guys! How about bringing that up a little bit?"
Mr. Ferguson, who grew up in the West Village and the Bronx and now lives in Brooklyn, said he wears jeans on the weekend, but likes to see people dress appropriately for their age and situation.
"It's a broad generalization, but men these days are infantilized, and that can be represented by their gear,” he said. “I didn't grow up in that type of household, and I don't continue to live that way. As an adult. I know I'm an adult."
"I love that you used the term 'infantilized!'" I said. "So many people on the street dress not just like children these days, but literally like babies!"
It’s true. Since the pandemic, some folks slipped into their sweatpants and never looked back. It's depressing.
I asked Mr. Ferguson if people treat him differently when he's wearing a suit.
"Absolutely!" he said. "I have gotten into things that I shouldn't have because people make judgments and assumptions and go, 'Oh, well, he belongs here,' or 'he's the manager,' or 'he's the owner.' I've definitely bluffed my way into wonderful situations because of my uniform—and my uniform is a suit."
So who else wears a suits in NYC these days? I asked.
"Not many!" he said. "But I will tell you, number one, trial attorneys! Clearly, they're the last bastion."
Afterward, I made my own little list of who I’ve observed wearing suits. Entertainers, for sure. And, for some reason, commercial real estate brokers—they even sport fancy watches and pocket squares!
On the other hand, there's all the folks in the city who are forced to wear a suit and tie: security guards, doormen, hotel desk clerks. It's ironic that these days, the majority of suit wearers might actually be minimum wage workers. I suspect some men avoid suits for fear they'll be mistaken for a busboy.
I had a Zoom call the next day with that rarest of unicorns, a lady suit wearer! I was delighted when Alex Bushman, founder of Good Ole Girls Club, a NYC networking organization, appeared in a striking sage green leather suit. Her tank top underneath was embroidered with a little martini glass.
Ms. Bushman loves business dress. "The second that you put on a suit, you just feel super empowered, like a boss business woman!" she said.
And because so few people wear suits these days, it helps her stand out, she said. It's a conversation starter—especially when she's wearing a leopard print number.
Among Gen-Zs, meanwhile, suits are so unusual, they're almost regarded as a fun costume. "You kind of feel like you're in your parent's closet, playing dress-up," said Ms. Bushman, who is 31. "It's simultaneously very empowering and very playful."
At industry events, she sees young female company founders wearing suits that echo their company branding. The owner of a fruity soda brand wears a hot pink suit, for example, while a skincare company founder sports a lilac pantssuit the same shade as her company logo. "It's another personal branding thing," said Ms. Bushman. "It's very empowering to be able to match your brand."
So far, it sounded as though the suit has gone from a mark of conformity to a strategy for standing out. But how about so-called "normal" people? How do they explain their suits?
The next day, I hit the streets and stopped every suit wearer I saw with the same question: "Why are you wearing a suit?"
I found my first man a half block from my door, feeding the meter on Henry Street. Alberto, who lives in the Bronx, was wearing a blue suit, black turtleneck and black sneakers. The medical equipment salesman says he always wears a suit when calling on clients.
"I look at it as professionalism," said Alberto, who is 30. "I respect myself, and I want to be treated the way that I dress. It's a way of saying, 'I'm serious about what I'm doing.’"
"Do people treat you differently when you're wearing a suit?" I asked.
"One-hundred percent!" he said. "I command the room. They take me a lot more seriously. It's a different experience."
The next two were legal types. A trial lawyer said he wears suits because he has to. So did Paul, 62, from Staten Island. “I'm required to by work," he said. "I work for the courts, in a quasi-judicial position. That means I do a lot of the judge's work, but I don't get called 'your honor.'"
"Does everyone in the courtroom have to wear a suit?" I asked.
"The attorneys do,” he said. “You could get yelled at by the judge. I've seen it happen. He'll say, 'Couldn't you find something better to wear?' It could be snarky, could be sarcastic. It can be humiliating for the attorney who is inappropriately dressed."
Paul said everyone in the courts hates wearing suits—especially in the summertime. I asked if the dress code might change.
"No, it's in the union contract—the contract between the people who work for the court system and the court system," said Paul. "The collective bargaining agreement says you have to wear a suit!"
When I took the 2 train into Midtown, the first suit wearer I spotted was Dean, a real estate broker waiting on the corner for a client. Back when he worked on Wall Street, he said, he always wore a suit and tie. He's glad those days are over. Now, he only wears suits for client meetings.
His client showed up in jeans, of course.
"Why you don't you talk to him about why he's not wearing a suit!" said Dean. "How about that?"
I next spotted Rocco, 64, chatting with a coworker in front of his office building near the corner of Fifth Avenue.
"I work for a very old-fashioned company, and we still wear suits every day," said Rocco. "We're a European company, and they're very formal. I'm in sales, which is even more formal. And I was just out with a client, so that's even more formal!"
"Is this one of your best suits?" I asked, admiring his eye-catching blue plaid.
"Actually it is," said Rocco. "And this is an old-school 1970s tie, from a designer called Brioni. It might from my father’s collection."
"This must be an important client," I observed.
"They're all important," said Rocco.
He enjoys his suits. "I went to Catholic School and wore a suit every day from seven years old. I don't mind it,” he said. “I don't like it in the summer because of the heat, but you get a lot of respect from wearing a suit. People move out of your way. You get more notice. You noticed me from across the street, and we're not talking about Brad Pitt over here. Really, you noticed my suit, not me!"
I next headed to Bryant Park—my favorite place in the city for random interviews. In NYC, there are parks for nannies, parks for drug addicts, parks for tourists and parks for bohemians. But Bryant Park attracts every kind of New Yorker. It's the Noah’s Ark of the city! And because it's surrounded by office towers, it even draws folks wearing suits.
Of the ten suit-wearing men I approached in the park (and I didn't see a single lady suit-wearer!), three—including a lawyer and a finance guy—were from out of town. They had dressed up for a business meeting, they told me, which they wouldn't necessarily do in their hometown, where attire is more casual.
"It's a more formal culture here for sure," said Ben, 30, who works in private equity in Grand Rapids, Michigan and visits NYC several times a year.
Ivan and Ash, who head a Wall Street-based education non-profit, said they normally wear jeans to work, but had dressed in suits that day for their first meeting with a new partner. “We've been texting and emailing, but today was the day we were officially securing our partnership," said Ash.
I was struck by the fact that every suit-wearer I interviewed in Manhattan was dressed up for a special meeting. Except for Matthew, who was eating Chipotle takeout dressed in a black suit and red tie. A security guard for a big international bank, he wears a suit every day. It's his uniform.
"I love wearing a suit!" said Matthew, who lives in Bayside, Queens. "It’s like my natural style. Even outside of work, I dress business casual. It’s just a nice look.”
I asked if people treat him differently when he's wearing a suit.
"Definitely!" he said. "When I'm coming out of the gym wearing workout clothes, it’s like, ‘Hello, what’s up!’ But in a suit, you hear a lot of 'sir.' And I'm only twenty!"
This got me wondering. Wearing a suit is like donning a magic costume that instantly commands the respect of everyone around you. So why aren't we all wearing suits?
I put this question to Daniel Mofor, the designer and founder behind Don Morphy, a high-end Madison Avenue suit shop that specializes in slim, Italian fits and bold colors.
But first, we talked about who’s still wearing a suit.
In New York, said Mr. Mofor, you still see a lot of legal, finance and real estate guys in suits, in addition to government officials—including the city's sizable population of ambassadors and diplomats. "Lastly, event planners," he said.
What do these professions have in common? "Most of them still go to the office," he said. "If you talk about the tech people, most of them work from home."
This might also explain a peculiar quirk in the Gallup poll stats. According to the survey, 2% of US workers earning $50,000 or less wear a suit to work, as do 5% of those earning $100,000 or more. But among those earning $50,000 to $100,000, almost no one is wearing a suit. And these are the folks most likely working at home in their pajamas.
Suits have better maintained their popularity in Europe, Mr. Mofor added. "And when you talk about dressing up, New Yorkers are closer to Europeans—they are the best dressed. In America, if it’s not comfortable, they don't want to do it.”
It’s also just easier to wear a suit in NYC than in a hot weather city like Miami or LA, he noted.
But back to the original question—if wearing a suit garners instant respect, why don’t more of us take advantage?
"Some people don’t look at it that way—they don’t think a suit is going to change how people look at you," said Mr. Mofor.
But I’m also thinking that, at least in NYC, a suit isn’t the only look that commands respect. I recalled a story told by Mr. Ferguson, the fashion consultant, about an encounter he had downtown last month.
"I'm just walking,” he recalled, “and this young kid skated up to me and said, 'That's a wonderful looking suit, sir. You look great!' This is a kid who's got baggy-ass jeans and Nike dunks. And I told him, 'Hey, you do too, bro. Game recognize game!' Because it's true. There's not one way to dress well. I let him know, ‘Hey, I'm checking you out, too. And you know, you got a cool outfit, which is appropriate to what you're doing and your age.’ So, you know, always be fly!"
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I knew a young just out of jail and he wore suits. He ordered ten from eBay at a good price. While wearing the first one he realized the pockets were all sewn shut. When he cut the thread there were no pockets. He contacted the seller who said “ These are suits for a corpse. They don’t need pockets.”
Love this issue, Anne! I love every issue, so I'm becoming redundant in my compliments, but your newsletter is like a bright spring flower. As a recovering lawyer, I do not miss wearing a suit to work every day. Women were required to wear hosiery in my day, which would invariably get a run in them and were so uncomfortable, especially in the summer. Pumps (do they still call them that?) with a heel were also standard, which eventually lead to my chronic back issues (compounded by carrying heavy boxes of files and prolonged sitting at my desk while under intense stress). However, working from home for the past several years has turned me into a bit of a fashion slob, and this has definitely affected my self-confidence. Wearing a suit did help me take myself more seriously and others also seemed to treat me with more respect. I am hoping to find some middle ground but don't have much luck at the few remaining department stores these days. Very odd mix of styles, and nothing I like myself in. Suggestions would be welcome!